The Jeffrey And Tracey Info Emporium

Today there are sprays, scented candles, plug-ins, and even discs that promise to freshen your air by putting a variety of aromas into your home. However, when you know how to grow basil, you can have enough variety of fragrance to package your own potpourri! The most commonly grown basil is the annual, ocimum basilicum that carries a minty fragrance that smells like… well, it smells like sweet basil. In addition to having a wonderful fragrance, sweet basil is an essential ingredient in soups, stews, pesto sauce, and just about any tomato dish. Knowing how to grow basil is a must for every herb gardener. You can grow herbs both indoors and outdoors

Basil comes in over 160 varieties that, in addition to the sweet basil fragrance, offer other aromas like those of lemon, licorice, and cinnamon and foliage colors that range from emerald green to royal purple. Learn how to grow basil and you provide a treat for you eyes as well as an aromatic treat for you nose.

Generally, when just learning how to grow basil, you’ll want to start your plants from seeds. Until basil stems are nearly mature, they are quite fragile and easily broken and bruised so transplanting young basil cultivars can be an exercise in futility. Luckily, basil is one of the cultivars that can be seeded directly into your garden and in fact, if you reseed your basil plot every three weeks, you’ll have fresh basil all summer long.

Basil is a low-maintenance plant. Although it prefers full sun, it will grow in partial shade. Once seedlings are established, basil is also drought tolerant and will actually provide better flavor if you don’t fertilize it! One tip you should know about how to grow basil and preserve its full flavor for culinary use is to pinch off flower spikes as they form.

Part of the fun of knowing how to grow basil is the many different ways to preserve it after harvest. You can harvest your basil anytime by snipping off its leaves as you need them and they turn many ordinary dishes into delicacies when used fresh. Basil can also be dried by snipping some stems and hanging them in bunches together. Air-drying basil in this way is a great way to add its aroma to your kitchen! When your basil bunches are completely dry, you can crumble the leaves and store them in glass bottles. Basil can also be preserved by freezing. Freeze small quantities of fresh basil in plastic bags or chop the leaves and freeze them in water in an ice cube tray.

Basil is an easy-growing herb that is full of possibilities for home décor, fragrance and culinary use. In addition, it’s as well suited for container growing as it is for direct seeding into your garden. Learning how to grow basil is a sweetly satisfying part of gardening, no matter what variety you choose to grow!

Hans is gardener and owner of Gardening-Guides.com and Patio-Furniture-Ideas.com.

Would you like to have tulips blooming for two months in your
garden? Planting a few each of the following different types
will ensure a long season color show.

For the most part, the species tulips bloom the earliest. You’ll
know they are species because they have those fancy Latin names
on the labels. You’ll see name like “greigii”, “kaufmanniana”,
and “tarda”. While they bloom earlier than the hybrids, they are
also the shortest so do make sure you plant them at the front of
the garden. And, if you want a naturalized looking garden, the
species tulips are the most natural looking and will tend to
self-sow.

As a rule of thumb, the later the tulip blossom comes, the
taller the flower. The next earliest bloomers are only slightly
taller than the earliest species tulips. Blooming at twelve to
eighteen inches are the mid-season bloomers. You’ll see names
like “fosteriana”, “single early” and “double early” on those
enticing labels. Most of these have sturdy stems to hold the
flowers upright in spring storms so you can plant them almost
anywhere in the garden. Do note that most of the colors of these
plants fall into the hot red, yellow and orange part of our
color wheel. Designers use them because they provide an exciting
dash of spring color and contrast well with the emerging leaves
of nearby perennials.

Then we come to the late season tulips. These big guys bloom
towards the end of May and you’ll find names such as “lily
flowering”, “single late”, “double late”, “viridiflora” and
“parrot tulips”. Most of these later tulips reach for the sky
(they get knocked down in storms) and hold their flowers
eighteen to twenty four inches above the ground. They also come
in the widest range of colors and flower at the same time as
your early perennials.

SONGBIRDS are among nature’s greatest indicators of a quality environment.

In and around many industrial centers where pollutants are rampant and in heavy agricultural areas where pesticide use is great, the number of songbirds has decreased in recent years.

Not so in most of Texas, where clean air, excellent habitat and people interested in nature are the rule and not the exception. Many Texans are concerned about the inroads being made upon nature by an expanding human race & receive balm to their spirits each spring via the cheerful melodies of songbirds.

You can get a front-row seat in your own back yard to this concert by providing nesting places such as a Bird House for the birds of your choice. This is becoming especially important, because habitat destruction by man is critically reducing songbird nesting areas. A good project this spring would be to build a Bird House or two. This is a great family project for Father & Son/Daughter.

Those who enjoy the companionship of birds will find these types of Bird House inexpensive and fun to build. A well-built Bird House should be durable, rainproof, cool, and readily accessible for cleaning. By using some imagination, the builder can also add an attractive touch to the landscape.

Wood, such as Cedar, Cypress, & Pine are the best building materials. Metals other than aluminum should be avoided, for they become extremely hot when exposed to a sweltering sun. Treated Lumber should also be avoided as it is toxic to some birds. Rough cut slabs with the bark left on make ideal material for a rustic looking Bird House.

Roofs should be constructed with sufficient pitch to shed water. At least 3 inches of overhang should be allowed to protect the entrance of the Bird House from driving rain. Some water may still seep into the Bird House, therefore a few small holes should be drilled in the floor to allow drainage.

Builders should plan for several holes near the top of the box to provide ventilation in hot weather. The Bird House should be constructed preferably with ceramic coated screws for easy disassembly when cleaning and the ceramic will keep the screws from rusting.

Entrance holes should be near the top of the box and proportional to the size of the bird which will use the Bird House. A Bird Houses should have the interior walls roughened or grooved to assist the young in climbing to the opening.

Every Bird House should be placed at locations inaccessible to natural predators. The opening should face away from the prevailing wind, and if possible, the Bird House should be situated in partial sunlight. Subdued color tones are best, except for those placed in direct sunlight where white is needed to reflect the heat.

No Bird House should be placed near another. Some birds insist on territorial rights and conflicts could result in an empty Bird House. At least 1/4 acre should be allowed for most types of Bird House.

Different species of birds need houses constructed to suit their particular needs. The following link “Bird Houses” will take you back to the variouse type bird houses we offer here at Cedar Creek Woodshop. Browse the site and if you have any questions, please do not hesitate to drop us a line.

About the Author

Brought To You Courtesy: Cedar Creek Woodshop Where We Have Been Custom Building Outdoor Patio Furniture Made Of Treated Lumber and designing Bird House and Bird Feeders made of Western Red Cedar For The Last 25 Years.

Rose Garden Tips

The rose garden ultimately is a get away for you and your thoughts any time of the day. You can plan and create a rose garden of your own that will take away the stress of your day with its beauty. The rose garden that you love and admire so much can be yours if you follow a few easy steps in planning and in raising your roses.

If you have never raised roses before, we have a few great tips and ideas lined up for your reference. One important thing to remember is that roses do love the sunshine. In the garden that is full sun areas only, you will have great success in growing roses. If you have a partially shaded area where you want to grow new rose bushes, you may want to consider moving your plants to where your roses will receive at least six hours of sun a day or more.

When first planting or transplanting a rose bush, water will be an important factor. You will need to water your roses at least once a week as your rose establishes itself. The soil that you plant your rose in does need to drain well, this is important. The rose bush will not thrive in the area moist all of the time. Refraining from planting your rose in an area that fills with puddles will aid in your successful rose gardening.

As your roses grow and change every year, you will need to pick off the dead head flowers. Picking off the flowers that are dead will bring new life to your bush. If you find black spots on the leaves of your rose bush, this will keep your plant from suffering and from any disease from spreading over the entire plant. Treating your plants at the first sign of Japanese beetles is going to save their luscious green leaves from these tiny creatures.

In the spring of the year, you will need to prune your rose bush. The blackened portions of your rose bush need pruned away to promote additional new growth over the entire plant. While pruning your plant in the spring season, pull weed starts so that your plant is not in competition for water or soil nutrients over the growing seasons.

As you plan your rose garden and begin placement, planting roses of the same color next to each other will enhance the over all look of the rose garden. Using too many flowers in one area though, can make the entire rose garden look more jumbled than a wave of color.

One last thing for you to think about when creating and planning a rose garden is to remember to test your soil. Soil testers are widely available and relatively inexpensive. When testing your soil, your pH level is going to be most important for success with roses. A pH level of 5.5 to 6.6 is the ultimate situation for raising a rose garden of your own.

This article is provided courtesy of The Garden Source Network - http://www.garden-source.com - a large gardening network devoted to helping you find all the gardening materials you need, such as Seeds, Live Plants, Roses, Trees and Beautiful decor. This article may be distributed and published on any website, as long as this statement and URL remain intact, and the website address is linked properly.

About the Author

Need flower and garden products? Visit The Garden Source Network today!

Vacuum Cleaner information to help make you’re house cleaning
easier by getting the right vacuum to meet your cleaning needs

Deep Cleaning Vacuums (or steam vacuums): Typical features on a
deep cleaning vacuum include rotating brushes that agitate the
carpet pile and loosen the dirt for a more thorough clean; on
hard floor surfaces the rotating brushes gently scrub the floor
clean. Some models have a handy automatic tool conversion button
or switch that you push/flip as you move from carpeted surfaces
to hard floor surfaces or vice versa. The most common use for a
deep cleaning vacuum is for the removal of carpet stains, hot
water and the cleaning solution are pushed deep into the carpet
to extract the stain. Special nozzles can be attached to make it
more effective. When the job is complete you just empty the
container, most models are equipped with a handy one hand tank
removal. Deep cleaning frequency: If you take a scheduled
approach to cleaning your carpets they will look cleaner longer.
Clean entrances every 4-6 weeks, bedrooms about every 8 weeks,
main traffic areas every 12 weeks, clean the entire house every
15 months.

Hand Held Vacuums: Hand held vacuums are light weight, can be
either corded or cordless and most can be mounted on a wall.
Cordless performance depends a lot on the charge of the battery,
as the battery power drops so does the suction power. Two styles
of hand held vacuums include; straight suction or suction with a
power brush to agitate the carpet or upholstery for a deeper
clean, this works very well on pet hair. Other available
attachments include: a brush for upholstery, crevice tool,
extension wand and a switch to lock the machine in the on
position. If you are considering a hand held vacuum determine
its primary purpose, will it be used occasionally on small jobs
or part of a regular cleaning schedule. Determining this will
better guide you to selecting the right model.

Broom Vacuums: Broom vacuums or stick vacuums are ideal for
small apartments, those quick clean ups in the kitchen, bathroom
or family room. The benefit of a broom vacuum is its light
weight, if you have trouble pushing your heavier standard
upright, this may come as welcome relief. You have the option of
getting your vacuum corded or cordless, allowing you the freedom
to roam around the house spot cleaning. The light weight,
usually just 2lbs.-7lbs, allows you to easily store the unit in
the closet taking up minimal space. For quick, convenient
disposal of dirt and debris most models are bagles. Broom/stick
vacuums work great on those small jobs but they just don’t have
the power or capacity to clean larger homes, however they are a
great companion to your regular size vacuum cleaner. If you have
never owned a broom/stick vacuum you might be surprised at how
often and useful you find it.

Wet/Dry Vacuums: Wet/Dry vacuums may be the most versatile
vacuum cleaner on the market, with numerous attachments and
functions it is handy appliance to have around the house.
Canister sizes can vary greatly from the smaller 6 gallon to the
larger 22 gallon. Horsepower ranges from about 2 H.P. up to 10
H.P. Try to match the size of unit to the size of the job and
the frequency of use. Some beneficial features to look for in a
wet/dry vacuum include: Pleated Cartridge Filter: These filters
will save you time and money. Just pull it out when it’s full of
dust and rinse it off with water. Wheel Base: Make sure your
machine has a wide wheel base, this will help stop it from
tipping over, and they generally pull easier. Drain Valve: To
make it easier to empty liquids some units have a drain valve or
nozzle located at the bottom of the canister. Auto shut-off:
This sensor has the ability to tell when your vacuum is full of
water and automatically turn off the motor. Some of the tools
you can add to a wet/dry vacuum cleaner include: a scrubbing
brush, crevice tool, water nozzle, combination nozzle (wet &
dry), extension wand, cleaning kits and some larger models have
the ability to attach a leaf blower.

Upright Vacuums: One of the most common features of an upright
model is the bagles system. In addition to increased
performance, there is no need to purchase any bags saving you
time and money. Emptying the bagles canister can be a little
dusty. Some bagged upright vacuums feature a full-bag alert
which will notify you when the bag is getting to full. Both
bagged and bagles styles may offer a dirt sensor that notifies
you when there is a certain level of particles in the air stream
indicating there is still some dirt not being sucked up into the
bag. An on/off switch for the power brush is good safety feature
to have in case the vacuum accidentally gets pulled over your
feet or cord as you focus on using the attachments. Most upright
models come with a standard set of attachments that may include
an upholstery tool, a crevice tool and an extension wand. A
retractable cord, manual or automatic pile-height adjustment are
two more handy features. Some vacuums allow the dirt to be
sucked through the bag initially before it reaches the fan,
other systems have the dirt goes through the fan first then to
the bag, this may damage the fan. A HEPA filter is another
common feature found on upright vacuum cleaners.

Canister Vacuums: Retractable cords are common on canister
vacuums and considering most cords are around 25 feet in length
this handy feature helps from having to drag the cord around and
possibly damaging furniture. A push of a button or slight tug on
the cord will retract it into the vacuums canister. The nozzle
is usually one of two types, a suction nozzle or a power nozzle.
To thoroughly clean the carpet it is recommended that you use
the power nozzle which will agitate the carpet and loosen up the
dirt for a deeper cleaning. Another feature to look for on a
canister vacuum is a suction-control switch; this allows you to
adjust the airflow for cleaning delicate material like drapery
and upholstery. Some handle grips also have an automatic shut
off should you loose your grip and let go of the handle.
Pile-height adjustment is another feature that may be offered on
a canister vacuum. Being able to match the height of the vacuum
to the height of the carpet will improve cleaning. Automatic
pile-height adjustment does not seem to work as effective as
manually adjusting the height of the vacuum cleaner.

I hope the previous information helped to narrow down your
search to the style of vacuum cleaner that is best suited for
your cleaning needs. Next you just need to compare the different
manufacturers’ models and features in your price range.

Gray Mould (Botrytis blight)

This common fungus infects leaves, rhizomes, stems, flowers, and seedlings of many plants. The disease thrives on mild, moist conditions and often survives on infected plant debris. The fungus which causes the disease is Botrytis cinerea and it is known to infect large numbers of differing plant species, but is a serious problem in only a small number of them.

Botrytis blight can be a problem in greenhouses where the humidity is high and the temperature moderate. It attacks tomatoes, as well as cucumbers and other fleshy plants, and fruits such as strawberries and raspberries.

Botrytis blight can affect plants in various of ways. It may cause collapse of seedlings, blossom blight, fruit rot, stem and crown rot, or shoot blight. The first symptom is usually the appearance of water-soaked lesions. This is followed by tissues becoming soft and watery. The affected parts of the plant then wilt and collapse.

If the humidity remains high, the infected area quickly becomes covered with a gray-brown mass of fungus and spores. Lots of spores are produced and these are easily blown or splashed onto healthy foliage. If there is moisture present and other conditions are favorable, germination and infection can take place in as little as a few hours.

Varying in size up to 1/4 inch, flattened, black, Sclerotia may be produced on fleshy parts of stems and fruits. These structures allow the fungus to survive when conditions are not favorable for growth. The Sclerotia are not always easy to see as they may be embedded in decayed tissue or coated with soil and other debris.

The spores need a film of moisture in order to germinate and infect plants. This is why gray mold thrives in humid and moderate conditions. In greenhouses, good ventilation will help to control gray mold. The use of a small fan to improve air circulation will also help to keep this problem at bay.

The fungus thrives on plant debris and detritus, so cleanliness and sanitation is an essential part of gray mold control. Fallen leaves and dead plants, as well as any extraneous plant material, should be removed from the greenhouse and burned. This will greatly reduce the amount of infectious material available, and so limit the fungal spread.

In the event of a bad outbreak of Gray Mould it may be necessary to resort to some form of chemical treatment. There are a lot of suitable fungicides available through your local garden center, so ask for advice as to the best one for the particular crop you are growing.

Annuals can be grown readily from seed in most cases. The
method of growing depends upon the delicacy or hardiness of the
seed, and may require planting in frames or pots initially,
transferring to the bed only when the weather is sufficiently
mild and the plants well grown.

Many perennials and biennials may also be propagated from seed.
This method, however, is not suited to all perennials, and some
of the methods already discussed will yield more fruitful
results. Typical perennials which can be propagated from seed
are: Hollyhock, Christmas rose, Columbine, Bleeding heart,
Baby’s breath, Foxglove, Butterfly weed, Primrose, Larkspur.

Depending on the variety of seed, most annuals and perennials
which can be grown by this method can be planted in seedbeds out
doors. The time for planting varies. A few can be sown in
autumn, but most, however, should be sown in spring, and, to be
safe, not before the last frost has passed.

The big disadvantage of outdoor sowing is that one sacrifices
control over the circumstances under which the seeds will
germinate. In an indoor hotbed, or coldframe, conditions of
moisture, heat, etc., can be regulated. Not so in the outdoors,
where dryness or changing weather can destroy the weaker seeds
quickly. If an outdoor seedbed is planned, choose a spot with
good soil.

Then work in a portion of your compost pile, pulverizing the
soil to the depth of 3 inches. Adding some sand and peat moss
increases the effectiveness of the bed. Most seed may be planted
on the surface, and the deepest one should plant is 1/2 inch.
The bed should be well-watered after the seed has been broadcast
over the entire area. The bed can then be lightly tamped.

Carbon dioxide (CO2) is required by crops to execute the
photosynthesis process. Throughout photosynthesis, CO2 is mixed
with water, nutrients, and light from the sun (or hydroponic
garden light) to produce important sugars that provide the
plant’s light.

Why should you add CO2 to your hydroponic garden?

Low carbon dioxide (CO2) measures will limit your plant’s
capacity to create energy through photosynthesis. Crops can
process a great deal more CO2 than is normally found in the
surroundings. One of the best ways to boost growth is to enhance
the quantity of CO2 available to your crops with a CO2 system in
your hydroponic garden.

How to increase your hydroponic garden’s carbon dioxide levels

Choosing a CO2 injector is the least pricy way to add CO2 to
your hydroponic system’s climate. These commonly consist of a
release, regulator, and a gauge to determine the amount of CO2
being inserted into the air. Some of the more involved carbon
dioxide injectors also include a timer to run the scheduling of
the CO2 discharge. CO2 refills are usually distributed
independently and can be found at medical or eatery supply shops.

If you want to use your hydroponic garden for a lengthy time or
for a number of crops, it may be cheaper to invest in a
long-term CO2 production solution. Carbon dioxide generators
manufacture carbon dioxide through the heating of propane,
natural gas, or any other carbon-based fuel base. They are
appreciably more costly than the basic CO2 injector system, but
you will eliminate the expense and effort of obtaining CO2
refills. Over a lengthy enough period of time, the investment in
CO2 production ends up to be more economical than purchasing an
injector and many refills.

For large-scale nurserymen (or those with extra funds to tinker
around with), a CO2 gauge with regulator can mechanically
maintain your hydroponic setup’s carbon dioxide levels at a
selected point. These arrangements can be very pricy, 100s to
thousands of dollars, but are a fine extra if you can find the
money for it. There is normally an automatic CO2 dial connected
to a regulator that is then associated to a CO2 producer to
guarantee that the system continually is set at the user’s fixed
CO2 amount. Some dials are marketed separately and are
compatible with many varieties of regulators, allowing greater
versatility when planning your system.

Whichever system is best for you, it is important to always
consider your carbon dioxide system when initially desiging your
hydroponic garden. Many gardeners will overlook this one part of
their system and reduce their crop’s production before a single
seed is even sprouted. Remember, a lack of any key facet
required for photosynthesis will limit the plant’s development
to the point of that deficit. If any one needed aspect is
omitted, the full growing process will be impacted.

Did you know that you can still grow your own beautiful
flowers and vegetables, without having to spend many hours
every week looking after your garden?

One of the biggest problems many gardeners face is never
having enough time to maintain their garden. There’s always
weeds to remove, insects and other pests to take care of,
and steps to take to prevent plants becoming diseased. Even
watering the garden each day can be very time consuming,
unless there’s an automatic sprinkler system in place.

If you want a garden but only have limited time to look
after it, hydroponics is a great option. Hydroponics
gardening has many time-saving advantages over conventional
gardening methods.

Some of these advantages are:

1. No weeding required.

With hydroponics gardening, the plants are grown in a
solution of nutrients dissolved in water instead of soil.
You don’t have to worry about weeds sprouting amongst your
plants, because soil isn’t used.

2. Fewer problems with pests and diseases.

When growing hydroponically, you have less of the typical
problems with pests such as slugs, snails and caterpillars
attacking your plants.

Although the nutrient solution of your hydroponic garden
will have to be changed regularly, this only takes a
fraction of the time compared to conventional gardening
maintenance - eg. greenhouse gardening, where soil has to be
replaced between crops to prevent disease.

3. You don’t need to spend time watering your plants.

Plants grown in a hydroponic garden have an unlimited supply
of water. You never need to be concerned that your plants
are getting too much or too little water.

4. Say goodbye to digging your garden.

Preparation of a conventional garden involves loosening the
soil to add oxygen for the plant’s roots to extract. Once again, as soil isn’t used with hydroponics, this means
one less time consuming job for you to do.

Plants grown hydroponically extract oxygen from the nutrient
solution via their roots. The oxygen can quite quickly be used
up, so it’s important that it’s replaced. The way
it’s replaced depends on which system is used. The most
common hydroponic system is the passive system, which uses
an aquarium bubbler to put oxygen back into the solution.

Plants can be grown rapidly without all the concerns of
regular gardening. Although a hydroponics system can take
some time to set up, you’ll find it’s well worth the
effort.

For more information on hydroponics gardening visit: http://www.ultimate-hydroponics.info

Article by Stephen Provis, who has an interest in plants and home gardening.

Whilst hardwood is generally the preferred lumber species for exterior decking due to its hardness, resistance to wear and attractive colour, softwood species are commonly used, particularly where cost is an important factor. But the drawback of most softwoods is that they are not naturally durable so are unsuitable for use in areas fully exposed to the weather unless the wood is properly treated with a recognized wood preservative or completely sealed with an impervious surface coating. So when selecting a softwood species, one of the most important considerations is that these species used should be either a recognised naturally durable species such as Western Red Cedar, some species of cypress, larch or pine, or that it has been treated with an appropriate and good quality preservative.

For more than 70 years, the most commonly accepted wood preservative treatment chemical has been CCA (copper chrome arsenic), which gained popularity due to its effectiveness and relatively low cost. (CCA treated lumber can normally be distinguished by the greenish tone it imparts to the wood). However in recent years, many national organisations and authorities have announced either bans or restrictions on the use of lumber treated with CCA. For example, in Australia from March 2006, CCA treated timber will no longer be permitted for use as handrails, decking boards, picnic tables, or children’s playground equipment in new installations. And in Japan, CCA treated lumber is generally not permitted any longer for public use in major cities for municipal projects.

Although there is apparently no firm scientific proof to support the contention that CCA timber is harmful to health provided it is handled correctly, such cautions or bans have been instituted as a precautionary measure. Nevertheless it is always best to err on the side of safety, so it is recommended that when working with CCA treated lumber, to apply protective clothing including goggles, face mask and gloves. CCA treated lumber also should never be burnt in an open fire but must be disposed of according to local regulations.

Fortunately a number of alternative wood treatment products to replace CCA are now available, the most common of which is probably ACQ (alkaline, copper, quaternary). Such products use low toxicity, active ingredients such as recycled copper and modern organic biocides to give the lumber the required long-term protection against wood destroying fungi, termites and other wood eating insects. Although such products have not been available for a sufficiently long time for extensive natural durability data to be collected, most manufacturers will provide at least 25 years guarantee on the life of treated lumber.

So if you wish to use a softwood species for your deck, check what preservative treatments have been applied, and especially with the newer preservative treatment chemicals, ask what guarantee the lumber supplier is prepared to offer on the lifetime of the decking material. Although untreated softwoods typically have a very short life in exterior exposed conditions, if pressure treated with appropriate chemical, a softwood deck will provide many years of continual use and enjoyment.

Malcolm Kay is the CEO of Intex Pacific Pty. Ltd. an international supplier of landscape materials including modular decking tiles. For more information see http://www.swiftdeck.com